Check out our simple Sea-Doo oil change guide for a quick and easy tutorial. We’ve also got all the equipment you need to make the process a breeze.
Keeping your Sea-Doo running at its absolute best means taking care of the engine. But before you go running down to the garage, there are some basic maintenance tasks you can carry out yourself, such as an oil change.
You don’t need to be proficient at mechanics to carry out a simple oil change. Even if you’re a complete beginner, you’ll find it surprisingly easy – and it will save lots of money too!
Our guide on Sea-Doo oils and how to change them explains what you’ll need and how to carry out this essential task.
Recommended Sea-Doo Oil & Oil Change Kits
Take a look at our recommended kits and oils for both 2-stroke and 4-stroke Sea-Doo engines
Sea Doo 4-Stroke Oil Change Kit
If you’re changing the oil on your Sea Doo for the very first time, you’ll quickly realize that you need more than just new oil. You’ll need to extract the old oil before you can add the new oil, and that’s where a Seadoo oil change kit can help.
You’ll only need to buy the kit once because once you have the vacuum pump, you can reuse it as many times as you need. For future changes, you’ll just need the oil, rings and filter. Included in the Sea Doo oil change kit you’ll get:
- New oil filter
- O-rings
- Extraction hand vacuum pump
- Sea-Doo XPS Synthetic Blend Oil
As stated, the pump is operated by hand and can’t be hooked up to a drill. This means it’s not as quick to do the oil change as with a drill-operated pump.
The good news is that the vacuum suction does most of the work; you only need to give it a couple of pumps for the oil to start flowing.
Sea Doo 4-Stroke Oil
When you’re ready to add new oil, it’s best to stick to high-quality products, such as Sea-Doo XPS 4-Stroke Synthetic Blend. This Sea Doo oil is factory manufactured to the precise needs of the 4-TEC engine and isn’t an aftermarket product.
This means that you’ll get the best performance from your jetski and it will be well-protected from the corrosive effects of saltwater too. Suitable for all 4-stroke engines, including supercharged, it’s the oil recommended for use.
Related: Don’t miss our Sea Doo Fish Pro review.
Sea Doo Spark Oil Change Kit
You can’t just pick up any Sea-Doo oil change kit and expect it to fit your model; you’ll need to check whether it’s the right one for your craft. If you’re hitting the water in a Spark, you’ll need a Sea Doo Spark Oil Change Kit to get the job done.
In each of these kits, you’ll receive:
- 3 NGK CR8EB Spark Plugs
- New oil filter
- O-rings
- Extraction hand vacuum pump
- 2 quarts 5w-40 BRP/Sea-Doo oil
The vacuum pump makes it easier to operate, even if this is your first Seadoo oil change.
However, if you’re planning on doing a complete change, including the cartridge compartment, the oil included in this kit won’t be enough. This is slightly misleading as you’ll need an extra quart to complete the job.
That minor grumble aside, this is an excellent kit to get you started and for the next oil change, you can just re-use the vacuum pump so it won’t cost as much every time.
Related: How do you replace a lost Sea Doo key?
Sea Doo 2-Stroke Oil
Not all jet skis use 4-stroke oil; there are still a number of models which need 2-stroke oil to keep running.
There are the same demands on performance, with high-revving engines, so an OEM product like Sea-Doo XP-S 2-Stroke Synthetic Oil is a good pick.
It’s not the cheapest oil you’ll find but not be deterred by the higher price. It’s designed specifically for Sea-Doo PWCs and will go far further than cheaper, generic products.
This means in the long term the price difference will balance out, and you’ll get a better performance out of it too.
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How to Do a Sea Doo Oil Change
When you take your Sea Doo down to a main dealer for a complete service, an oil change should be part of the job.
If your Sea Doo is due an oil change but nothing else, you should be able to manage it yourself, even if you’re relatively inexperienced with engines.
This will save you a lot of money and also hassle, and providing you get the equipment you need, it’s surprisingly simple. Preparation is definitely key; don’t attempt an oil change until you have everything that’s recommended for the job.
The first thing you’ll need is a pump to get the old oil out. Look for a suctioning vacuum pump as this does most of the job for you. The first few pumps can feel quite hard but once the vacuum takes over the oil will steadily flow out by itself.
You’ll also need replacement oil; choose the brand recommended by the manufacturer and don’t cheap out. Your performance on the water will be affected and you’ll have to change the oil more frequently, so it’s a false economy.
If you buy a kit, it will have everything you need. That varies slightly from one model to another but typically includes a filter, and probably O-rings.
The one thing that kits don’t include is Ziploc bags; have one of these at hand as it will prevent a whole lot of mess! It’s also useful to have a strap wrench nearby.
Don’t attempt an oil change on a cold engine; you won’t get all the old oil out and it will leave sediment in your tank. Flush your engine for a few minutes or even better, take it for a short blast on the water!
Once the oil is warm, follow these next steps:
- Remove the oil cap and dipstick
- Follow the pump instructions and insert it into the dipstick tube
- Begin pumping to remove the oil (be careful – the oil will be HOT!)
- Once empty, disconnect the pump until next time
- Wrap a Ziplock bag around the old filter; this catches those nuisance spills when you remove it
- Unscrew it using your wrench; allowing it to drop into the Ziploc bag and set aside for disposal
- Before screwing on the new filter, smear a little oil on the gasket surface. This creates a tighter seal
- Screw the new filter on until it’s made contact with the gasket and then tighten using your wrench
- The new filter should be snug but not overly tightened or it will seize
- Add in the new oil by pouring it into the uncapped reservoir; make sure you don’t overfill
- Replace the cap and dipstick and then run the engine briefly to distribute the new oil
- Let everything cool and then check the oil level, topping up if the dipstick shows it’s too low
- Finally, take the old oil and filter to a recycling center or gas station for disposal. Never toss it in the trash!
And that’s it – job done! Give yourself a pat on the back for saving a whole bunch of money. Changing the oil is an essential task and one that you should never skip if you want your jetski to last. Now you know how easy it is, there’s no excuse for next time! Changing the oil is also necessary if you have a flooded jet ski.
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